Weathering the Storm: Athens Eateries – Culinary BackStreets at Karamanlidika

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… in celebration of their first anniversary, where crowds nibbled sausages and pastourma
… a well stocked shop specializing in preserved meats and cheeses

by Diana Farr Louis, (on July 2015)

With the banks closed for almost two weeks and Greece’s position in the eurozone the subject of heated debate and endless negotiations for the past several months, we wondered how some of our favorite restaurants were coping. Greeks had voted NO to austerity the previous Sunday (July 5), but did this mean they were spending their spare cash on staples for harder times and going out only to take part in demonstrations or stand in ATM queues?

To take the pulse of the situation, we went to the heart of the food district on the evening of Friday, July 10, starting at Agia Irini Square, where three of the places CB has covered stand within a few blocks of each other.

Around 8 p.m., we took our leave and headed for Evripidou Street and the delicatessen / restaurant Ta Karamanlidika tou Fani. We’d gone to a street party in May in celebration of their first anniversary, where crowds nibbled sausages and pastourma, downed plastic cups of wine or beer and danced in the street to live music. After Fanis launched the eatery on the corner opposite his family’s tiny but well stocked shop specializing in preserved meats and cheeses from Northern Greece, it quickly became one of the most popular places in the food district, crowded day and night.

On Friday evening, it was doing a brisk business and even had two rows of tables in an alley behind the restaurant proper that we hadn’t noticed on earlier visits. They were full too, but Fanis says, “Last 2 weeks, the Greeks have vanished” and indeed all the customers out back were Asian. Fanis was worried but not desperate yet. After all, his own family, started up their shop in 1922, and Sary, the enterprise that processes the meats up north, has been in operation since 1890. “Everything will depend on what happens on Sunday,” he warned as we said goodbye.

Source: CulinaryBackstreets – Athens Eateries in a Time of Crisis
Publication: 15/7/2015

Μόνιμος Σύνδεσμος: http://karamanlidika.gr/athens-eateries-culinarybackstreets/